Notes on the Rairotec (RRT) top triple clamp

I ordered the RRT direct via WÜDO's web site in approx 1998, for approx $225US (which included overseas shipping). WÜDO has a very unsophisticated web ordering system, you have to be somewhat trusting when placing your order. I'd consider using a VISA or MASTERCARD credit card that a.) has a low limit and/or b.) you use for little else. You're flying somewhat blind as far as what your actual charge will be, in the end. I reference currency conversion sites and came within $15US of the actual charge. WÜDO may do a better job now ...

Something to consider before starting up is what you're going to use for grips and the bar-end dressing (weights or no). You cannot re-install the stock R1100RS heated grips without performing some machining work to the end of the bars. If you plan on using the stock unheated ones, you'll need to be prepared to drill two smallish holes through the bar as the left grip are held on with screws. I used some airhead grips.

The disassembly process was like this:

  1. Find a space to put, then
  2. Remove all the bodywork from the seat forward - this is actually very easy to do on the RS / RSL, I can do it in about 30 minutes. When removing the center fairing section, I find it easier to leave the headlight attached to the fairing, and just remove the three 10mm pem-nuts that hold the headlight assembly to the fairing frame. While you don't have to remove the fairing, aren't you going to be PISSED if you scratch it. And anyway, you're halfway there because you now need to
  3. Pull the tank up & back out of the way a few inches - you need not drain it or unplug anything, but you might what to check / change those rotted vent lines. Now put a nice thick towel on the tank, just in case.
  4. If you've got heated grips, now's the time to trace the wires down to the single connector and pop the pins out, then either snake the wires out of the wire-ties or cut / replace the ties.
  5. Free up the wires to the bar controls, and remove the single screw that hold each switch assembly in place, tuck the switches out of the way.
  6. Take the mirrors off, and remove the bar-end weights and the left grip.
  7. Now you should be able to loosen up and slide the clutch lever assembly off the bar-end, and tie it onto the fairing frame, in a sock or something to protect it's finish.
  8. Repeat for the brake lever assembly. Keeping the fluid reservoir level when you tie it out of the way would be a good thing.
  9. Now you can remove all the ego-bar stuff from the stock top triple clamp. You're now left with a bare triple clamp except for the ignition switch. Take a break, because the next step might be a bear.
  10. Pop out the BMW logo black plug in the middle of the triple clamp and you'll see a large nut with a hex slot in the middle. To remove this nut, you need to unspin the nut (right-hand thread) while keeping the center hex stub (part of the ball joint) from turning. I used a 13/16" spark plug socket with flats, a 22mm box wrench and a good quality 6mm hex key as follows:
  11. Toolsassembled tools
  12. Be sure to use a quality hex key - see the following picture. The left one wasn't - the right one, a stock toolkit "Heyco" was from an old /5 toaster and held up fine.

    improper hex key

    On my bike this nut was loktited I suspect, it was a thrill to remove. I used a heat-shrink tubing heat gun to warm it up - that seemed to help. Don't go reaching for your propane torch - you'll blister the paint.
  13. Whew, got that bugger off, now trace the wiring for the ignition switch down to the left side of the bike, and unplug the connector. Loosen and slide the triple clamp off the fork tubes and take it to your bench, because now in order to remove the ignition switch you'll need to drill out the lock security bolts - I used a 1/4" bit.

To install the RRT unit sort-of reverse the above, and enjoy ...

Well, that's it - thanks for reading - Back to the first page